How to lay paving stones – this is how it goes step by step

How to move paving stones – how to go
If you want to pave your driveway, a walkway, the carport pavement or its terrace, this can be done with, among other things, baking stones. These paving clinkers are particularly hard-fired bricks. They can be laid in unbonded construction (on the split bed with moistened breaking sand as grout) or tied (on mortar bed with grout as grout). The type of lying depends on the loads that the finished plaster has to withstand later. For the paving of a sidewalk in the garden and a terrace at the house, the unbonded laying is completely sufficient.

If, however, the paving stones are later driven by cars, one should be bound by the tide. Otherwise, the construction is not stable enough and can sag. It is important that the substructure is absolutely level and compacted. Also, a slope of 2.5 cm should be considered for the drainage of the rainwater.

To lay bricks, you need the following materials

  • ruler
  • tape measure
  • wooden stakes
  • rope
  • spirit level
  • spade
  • Surface vibrator with removable rubber surface
  • pointing trowel
  • rubber hammer
  • Aluminum rail
  • trowel
  • hose Connector
  • Tiles Sponge

As building equipment and auxiliaries …

  • A grit-sand mixture in the grain size 0/45
  • Finished mortar
  • bricks
  • Joint mortar
  • Silicone rubber

Instructions for laying brick plaster

  1. Preparing the excavation
    You measure the area to be paved correctly, using a 5% area for the edge paving. Then you dig the excavation pit with several wooden poles. The slope is laid down as follows: If you want to build a terrace and excavate a hole of 40 cm depth, attach a rope at the first higher peg at the base of the house at the height of 40 cm and pull it towards the pin where you can see it in 37, 5 cm high. From there, pull the rope to the next peg on the wall, where it is fixed at the height of 40 cm. Then pull it to the next facing pin, which is wrapped in 37.5 cm height, etc. The slope is then still controlled using a water scale.
  2. Excavation of the excavation pit and placement of the mortar bed
    The excavation pit is excavated with a spade corresponding to the respective rope height. Subsequently, the substrate is pre-compressed with a surface vibrator. A supporting layer of a grit-sand mixture (grain size 0/45) is applied to this plan- ning substrate. Each layer is compacted with the vibrator to achieve optimum load bearing capacity. Then, five layers of 0.8 cm of water-mixed ready-mixed mortar are applied each time to produce the bedding layer for the bricks. Each layer must be compacted with the surface vibrator before applying the next layer.
  3. Laying the stones
    You start in a corner and move the paving stones according to the future use of the pavement: If a footpath is to be paved, it is laid in the runner banding, the distances between the individual stones being determined with the joining trowel and the stones topped with the rubber hammer. The joint width should be at least 0.4 cm. An expansion joint is applied every 5 m in each direction, which extends into the gravel layer under the mortar bed. For the paving of access roads it is advisable to lay in the herringbone pattern. In order to achieve straight edge edges, an aluminum rail is used. Afterwards, all outer edges are fixed with the aid of the masonry tray with an upturned back support made of mortar. A series of edge-limiting stones can then be laid on this.
  4. Grouting
    For grouting, one can use the finished grout mortar available in every DIY store, which is only mixed with water according to the instructions. Then the interspaces with the mortar mass are poured out. The expansion joints are filled with a permanently elastic material such as, for example, silicone rubber. After filling, all joints are deepened by means of a tubular piece.
  5. Cleaning and compacting
    Every 30 minutes, you should carefully clean the already paved surface of the mortar, as these can not be removed at a later date. Purified with a tiled tile sponge and water, which is frequently changed. In order to achieve optimum strength and load-bearing capacity, the dry paving piece is shaken with a surface vibrator with rubber plate. The previous mounting of the rubber plate is necessary so that the bricks are not damaged when they are stuck with the vibrator.


  • When purchasing the joint mortar, you should make sure that it does not contain any blooming substances, as these leave ugly gray streaks in the rainy weather on the plaster.
  • When mixing the joint mortar, it should be noted that this will harden relatively quickly. Therefore it is advisable to apply as much mortar as you can within a quarter of an hour.
  • A brick plaster laid in a mortar bed can be cleaned with a high-pressure cleaner.
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